Musings from the Mediterranean: Istanbul: Day 3

Kanyon Mall

This mall is ultra-premium. It’s outdoors, and an architectural statement with sweeping curves and fountains.
The stores are very high-end.
There is a theater in a huge sphere in the center of the mall.
The urinals are the special waterfree type, and the bathrooms as a whole exude luxury.
The escalators sense when you approach and operate only when needed.
We had to pass through airport-grade security to enter the mall.

Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque Şehzade

This mosque (and many others) was designed by accomplished architect Sinan.
There are rows of little domes covering the top of the mosque. Domes are symbolic of heavenliness and perfection.
Metal bands encircle many of the marble columns in Turkey. I can’t quite figure out if they’re for decoration or utility. One would think that solid marble columns would be fairly stable…
The mosque has a very small area for women to pray in the rear corner. Generally it is only men who pray in mosques (especially so for the community in which this mosque is located).
The small size of this mosque reminded me of the Church of Santa Maria della Pace in Rome. Space is used quite effectively in both small buildings.
The blue tiles decorating the interior of the mosque are quite beautiful. The geometric designs on these tiles are pleasing to the eye.
Religious worship is an evolving endeavor. Young generations are not spiritually identical to their predecessors. Modernizing forces tend to disrupt tradition, in terms of religion or otherwise.

Spice Market

Shops are super-crowded, just like at the Grand Bazaar.
The smells of the market are wonderful.
Similar shops are incredibly tightly packed. Even more so than in Rome, there seem to be five shops within 200 meters which sell essentially the same goods. I don’t understand how they can all be profitable.
Turkish delight is sold everywhere. Vendors offer plates with samples in hopes of attracting buyers.
Kebap sandwiches are super cheap (2 TL) and very good (I thought about getting two). The meat is prepared in a giant cylinder which is slowly rotated next to a vertical heating element. Shavings are taken right off the surface of the cooking cylinder, making for very fresh, tender meat.

Rustempaşa Mosque

There is a stunning silence inside this mosque (at least when we entered – it was nearly empty).
The suspended lights (kufi) are an odd mixture of incandescent and fluorescent bulbs.
There are no blue tiles in this mosque. The most distinctive design feature I saw was the use of an alternating red-white pattern around the edges of the ceiling.
All of the mosques exhibit an incredible level of order and symmetry, suggesting impeccable discipline in design and construction.
The inner courtyard area of this mosque looks just like the others we’ve seen (white marble in a very specific layout).
We had to pay 1 TL to use the bathroom (which was not very good). The “toilet” was a floor-mounted platform.

Chora Museum

Another church-turned-mosque that has since been restored.
Mosaics depict many Christian scenes, including the miracles and crucifixion of Christ.
It was very hot, crowded, and stuffy inside of this small museum.
The use of gold in mosaics and paintings is eye-catching.

St. George (Patriarchate) Church

Evening service was going on. Three robed men were reading to a standing cowd. In Greek Orthodox churches such as this one, sitting is not allowed during services.
The interior is heavy on stained wood; it is much darker and heavier than the light and airy mosques.

Eminonu Neighborhood

The neighborhood around the Patriarchate church is extremely poor and run down. The streets have a sour smell to them.
Nonetheless, a few kids can be seen playing in the streets, and one woman was rocking her child on her porch. She was quite receptive to having her picture taken.
We saw a nice Mercedes-Benz sedan on the side of one of the streets. It was completely out of place in such an old, run-down area.

Cruising and Pescatore Restaurant (Dinner)

We took a cruise along and across the Bosphorous to Pescatore, a seafood restaurant. The cruise lasted about 90 minutes.
It was awesome.
I love being on the water, with the wind in my face and an all-around view of the surrounding bridges, buildings, and landscapes.
Our tour guide pointed out a number of palaces and mosques along our trip.
Everyone took tons of pictures. The views were unparalleled.
We saw various shipping vessels from all different places in the (China, Russia, India etc.).
Dinner was (once again) very thorough and filling. Antipasti:

Once again, all of the flavors were excellent. I especially liked the whole fish. It was tender and moist, yet firm enough to flake well. I think I need a simple, cleansing meal soon, though.

Musings from the Mediterranean